A mid-October break, and conjuring our childhood experiences, we decided to head out in our camper van to the well-known amusement park of Flamingo Land in North Yorkshire, excited by the prospect of an on-site touring field and a couple of days of fun and reliving our childhood. We were eager to get going. On arrival to the park, just on the outskirts, we both noticed an elegant-looking building to the left with the slightly odd name of Dewars, instantly conjuring up feelings of a South Asian food offering. I made a mental note to look into it later.

After a day of enjoyment and mildly elevated blood pressure levels, a wee tipple was undoubtedly in order. Therefore, we chose to walk to Dewar's to unwind after indulging in one too many rides.

We entered the bar area to be greeted by a roaring fire—albeit somewhat too toasty for a mild October evening—and we approached the bar, where a solid wine and drink list presented itself. I certainly wasn’t expecting such a stellar selection for a random spot on the periphery of Flamingo Land, but the wine gods had shone. We settled for a Côte du Rhône while looking over the food offerings. 'Maybe tomorrow,' we thought, and then we took our wine outside and settled into a couple of seats that overlooked the luxury rooms area. It was all taking us somewhat by surprise. A very pleasant experience; we decided to return the following day, early evening, so we could take in the building and throw caution to the wind and dine at Dewar's.

 On arrival, we took a seat in the bar area and were pleasantly greeted by the barman. We indulged in a couple glasses of champagne to start proceedings. Shortly after, the staff asked us if we would be dining and whether we preferred the bar or the dining area; intrigued by snippets we had seen the day before, we chose the latter.

The menu's offerings excited us, and our early dinner was proceeding smoothly. We were led into a beautiful dining area, featuring a stunning orangery. The restaurant was impeccably clean with subtle, elegant décor and warm, inviting staff. It was an early Wednesday evening, so it was quiet, and we didn't acquire a feel for an atmospheric experience, but the lovely surroundings and views of a well-landscaped garden were still enjoyable. This place was definitely not done on a budget, with well-designed furniture and décor throughout. Newly built only two years ago, the building and setting were gorgeous, as well as a cosy autumnal event. Experiencing a summer afternoon or evening in the outdoor area would also be a joy.

Offered on the wine list by our wonderful host, aptly named 'Happiness', it was the start of things to come.

Something I’d never experienced We were presented with our mineral water in a cooler and stand, a refined touch, and a menu with locally sourced seasonal ingredients and a kitchen team who took pride in curating a fitting menu.

From a savoury millefeuille to an ox cheek, everything sounded divine. On hearing the soup of the day was a break from the normal offerings, I already felt I was in good hands, so swede soup and braised ox cheek served with pearl barley risotto and jus seemed like a joyful launch, and what a launch it was! A decadent, perfectly blended soup served with crusty bread was a colourful sight, highlighting a root vegetable that often gets left in the wings; it was balanced, garnished with oil and sultry as they came. The oxtail cheek was cooked extremely well with a delicious mat of pearly barley all singing and dancing off the plate and very well portioned.

We had opted for a classic Rioja crianza from the well-known team at Conde Valdemar, which was smooth as silk; sometimes a sure thing is just the ticket.

For our main course we went for pan-fried chicken fillet, streaky bacon, burnt shallot sauce, crispy kale, and Yorkshire peas that were accompanied by Aspen fries. The perfectly cooked and juicy dishes were beautifully presented on the plate, and at this point, I was very much in my happy place. Not to be outdone, I had decided on the lamb cutlets, served with a small lamb shoulder tartlet, dauphinoise potatoes, red wine jus and green beans – classic and very flavourful, the quality of the ingredients being a particular highlight. The experience felt very elegant and unexpected, creating a remarkable combination of emotions. 

 We felt well looked after with subtle service and friendly dispositions. As the night drew in, the perfectly positioned garden lights were again coating us in the warm feeling of Yorkshire dining at its best. I imagine in peak season they must be very busy; well, I hope they are, as it's absolutely deserving in every way.

Not to feel like I had missed out, we went for our third course of sticky toffee pudding washed down with a Tokaji, and it was a superb finish to an almost faultless dining experience. With no expectations, it provided everything I didn’t know I needed, and we even bought a wine to take back to the camper!

 We applaud the kitchen team for their meticulous attention to detail and the wonderful host for delivering 'Happiness' in every way.

Still not sure about the name, but who cares? It’s worth a drive out; with well-curated menus and a stunning dining room, it will not disappoint, and with the added bonus of luxury rooms, it’s a no-brainer for a perfect getaway. Well done, team Dewars; we will be back!

Total Spend: £215.00

Dewars Restaurant and Rooms
Lunch 12-5pm
Dinner Wed, Thurs. and Sunday 5pm-8pm
Fri & Sat 5pm-9pm

7 Kirby Misperton Rd,
Kirby Misperton,
Malton
North Yorkshire YO17 6UU

www.dewarshotel.co.uk